Skip to content
You are here

The Journal · Rings & Jewellery · Choosing a ruby engagement ring

Rings and jewellery

Choosing a ruby engagement ring

Ruby colour and the pigeon-blood idea handled soberly, fluorescence, heat treatment versus glass-filling, rarity, size and settings for daily wear.

A loose ruby held to the light beside a diamond of similar size for comparison

At a glance

Finest colour
A vivid, slightly purplish red, sometimes called pigeon-blood
Treatment to ask about
Heat is normal; glass-filling is a different, lesser stone
Rarity
Fine rubies are rarer than comparable diamonds at the same size

Choosing a ruby engagement ring means understanding that a genuinely fine ruby is rarer than most people assume, rarer at a given size than a comparable diamond, and that rarity is exactly where the decision starts.

The colour, spoken about soberly

The finest rubies show a vivid, slightly purplish red with even saturation across the stone, a quality the trade sometimes calls pigeon-blood, a name worth knowing rather than chasing, since it describes a level of colour rather than a guarantee stamped on any particular stone. Most rubies sit somewhere below that peak, in perfectly attractive tones that range from brownish-red to a brighter, more orange-leaning red, and the difference between a good ruby and an exceptional one is almost entirely down to how even and how saturated that red is.

Ruby often shows red fluorescence under ultraviolet light, which, unlike the blue fluorescence more commonly discussed with diamonds, tends to make the stone's colour look richer rather than hazier in strong daylight. It is one of the few places where a coloured stone genuinely benefits from the same sunlight that can be unkind to a diamond.

Heat treatment, and the treatment that actually matters

As with sapphire, heat treatment is standard practice for ruby and should be disclosed on the report and the invoice as a matter of course. It is a different matter from glass-filling, a treatment used on heavily fractured, low-quality rough where lead glass is used to fill fractures and dramatically improve apparent clarity. A glass-filled ruby is a genuinely different, much lower-value stone, and it needs to be avoided by anyone buying for an engagement ring rather than treated as a cheaper version of the same thing. This is the one disclosure question worth asking twice.

Rarity and size

Fine rubies of a carat or more in a strong, even colour are genuinely rare, rarer at that size than a comparable diamond, and the price reflects it. This surprises people who assume coloured stones are automatically the more affordable choice. Where a ruby buyer often gets real value is in choosing a slightly smaller stone with exceptional colour over a larger stone with a duller, more brownish tone, since colour drives desirability far more steeply than size does.

Setting a ruby to last

Ruby shares sapphire's hardness, nine on the Mohs scale, and its toughness, which genuinely suits it to daily wear. That single fact settles most practical questions about whether a ruby engagement ring can survive an ordinary life. It sits happily in claw, bezel or half-bezel settings, and the choice between them is mostly aesthetic rather than protective, unlike softer stones where the setting is doing real defensive work.

Heat treatment
Standard practice; declare on the report and the invoice.
Glass-filling
A different, lower-value stone; ask specifically and in writing.
Hardness
Nine on the Mohs scale, the same as sapphire.
Rarity
A fine ruby is often rarer at a given size than a comparable diamond.

A ruby earns its reputation honestly. Ask about treatment plainly, look at colour before size, and it is one of the few coloured stones we would put in front of anyone without a single caveat about daily wear.

I have had exactly one conversation about a glass-filled ruby that ended well, and it was the one where the client walked away before buying it.

What is glass-filled ruby, and why does it matter for an engagement ring?

It is heavily fractured, low-grade ruby rough that has had lead glass forced into its fractures to disguise inclusions and dramatically improve apparent clarity. It looks far better than the raw material underneath and is priced far below a genuine, untreated or heat-treated ruby, but it is fragile: household chemicals and even some jewellery cleaning methods can damage the glass fill. It should always be disclosed, and it is not a stone to build an engagement ring around.

Is a ruby a durable enough choice for someone who does not want to worry about her ring?

Yes. Ruby sits at nine on the Mohs scale, the same hardness as sapphire and second only to diamond, and it is tough as well as hard, meaning it resists chipping reasonably well too. Set securely, a genuine heat-treated ruby, the normal and accepted kind, is a sound choice for daily wear with essentially the same practical confidence as a sapphire.

Related jewellery guidance

The ring side of this decision.

The next step

Compare a heated ruby against an untreated one.

The difference in price and rarity is real and worth seeing in person. Gavin keeps examples of both for exactly this comparison.

Keep reading

The next stage

All of Rings & Jewellery

Testimonials

In their words.

  • “I decided to get engaged while my lovely girlfriend went to the UK for a short trip and I used the time to get a ring made while she was away. Gavin and his team gave me great advice and freedom. They helped me create and design my own ring, and taught me so much about the choices I have. They made the whole process a fantastic experience and I will totally send my friends back for the one on one experience.”

    Willie NelFreelance filmmaker
  • “Gavin and his firm were recommended to us by a mutual friend. From the very first contact, Gavin conducted himself in a very friendly but professional manner. Gavin clearly demonstrated the love and understanding of his business. His attention to detail and willingness to listen to our needs was very reassuring. We are extremely pleased with the design, quality of our jewellery and the superb service. It was certainly one of the best shopping experiences we have had. Our friends have found Gavin amazing and are very impressed with their purchases. On purchasing diamonds, we highly recommend others to contact Gavin. We certainly look forward to doing business with his company for years to come.”

    Dusanka and Robert CosicWales, UK
  • “My experience with Gavin was nothing less than exceptional. He provided excellent customer service, quality diamonds, and competitive prices. He was very knowledgeable and an excellent teacher. I learned everything I needed to know before purchasing the right diamond. I would recommend him and his company to anyone considering the purchase of a precious stone.”

    Michael Zarrabi, M.D.Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery
  • “Great experience dealing with Gavin. I have had many good experiences dealing with Gavin. The jewellery and stones are breathtaking and very reasonable in price. The service we received was so efficient and good advice was given to us when choosing specific stones. We look forward to many more dealings with Gavin.”

    Daniel and Elise Boyer
  • “My experience with Gavin goes back some years. Not only have I and my wife been advised and purchased from the company; we have, in addition, successfully referred a number of our friends to Gavin. His knowledge, service and flexibility have ensured that we consult them on any occasion where we are thinking of purchasing jewellery.”

    Bernard FreemanCEO, European Healthcare Group PLC, London
  • “Gavin Ruschin has been my preferred supplier of diamonds and designer jewellery for the past five years. During this period of knowing Gavin, I feel extremely privileged to have a supplier of such character and integrity servicing me personally, my company The BLD Group and our clients. Gavin has through excellent service become one of the most credible suppliers on our books. His honesty, unconditional professional service, excellent pricing and pleasant manner have earned him the respect and reputation of the highest degree amongst my clients, which include professional sportsmen and sportswomen, leading business people and politicians.”

    Bruce V DavidsonExecutive Chairman, The BLD Group